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Kyrgyz-British Joint Company Dostuck-Trekking LTD


Автономные походы в Тянь Шань 



DA - 1

Khan-Tengri Peak is one of the most beautiful and well-known mountain peaks all over the world. Every climber desires to conquer this peak. You are offered one of the ways to achieve this dream.

  1. Arrival in Bishkek, transfer to Lake Issyk-Kul (300 km), overnight in yurt camp on the lake shore, (LD).
  2. Transfer to "Mayda-Adyr" Base (200 km) that is located in the valley of Inylchek River (alt 2500 m), (BD).
  3. Helicopter flight to the high altitude Base Camp "Zvezdochka" (alt 4100 m), (BLD).
  4. Consultations on itinerary, preparation to ascent, (BLD).
  5. You are offered a classical route along the western ridge with crossing South Inylchek Glacier. In 7 km pitch Camp 1 on the right-lateral moraine. (B).
  6. Climbing from Camp 1 along Semenov Glacier up to the bridge (alt 5900 m) between Chapaev and Khan-Tengri Peaks. Set up Camp 2 (best of all would be to dig a snow cave).
  7. Acclimatization. Good high-altitude acclimatization is very important element ensuring successful ascent. More physical activities such as fixing the cave are recommended in this day. Also it is possible to go a little up along the route and go down to Camp 2.
  8. Early morning descent to South Inylchek Glacier and then towards to the Base Camp "Zvezdochka", (LD, Russian bath).
  9. Rest day, (BLD).
  10. Rest, preparation for ascent, (BLD).
  11. Ascent to Camp 1 (BL).
  12. Ascent to the bridge, Camp 2.
  13. Climbing to the mark of 6700 m, Camp 3.
  14. Ascent the peak, descent to Camp 3.
  15. Descent to the Base Camp, (LD, Russian bath).
  16. Reserve day in case of bad weather, (BLD).
  17. Helicopter flight to the base "Mayda-Adyr", transfer to Lake Issyk-Kul (300 km). Overnight in yurt camp on the lake shore, (BLD).
  18. Transfer to Bishkek, accommodation at a hotel, (BL).
  19. Transfer to the airport, departure.

Khan-Tengri Peak (the Master of the Sky, turk) - one of the most beautiful peaks in the world - is located in the very heart of Central Tien-Shan. The trip begins in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, then you will be transferred to the camp "Mayda-Adyr" by road and then by helicopter to the base camp on South Inylchek Glacier. And although Pobeda peak (one more Tien-Shan's giant) is a short distance south, you fix your gaze at Khan-Tengri. The huge marble pyramid bewitches. You are filled with mix feelings: unconscious feeling of fear is replaced by insurable desire to conquer this peak. There are several options to ascend Khan-Tengri Peak. One of them (classical one) is offered by our company. Having acclimatized to altitude (base camp is situated at the altitude of 4100 m), you will take a 2 hour trip towards Camp 1. Platform preparation are setting up of the tents are important acclimatization elements ensuring a successful ascent. Next day is advised to start as early as possible (before 06:00 a. m.) to avoid falling of ice and stones from Khan-Tengri and Chapaev peaks when climbing. Ascent time along Semenov Glacier to Camp 2 depends on many factors and in average it takes about 10 hours. This is one of the most difficult days. Camp 2 is located on a snow-covered slope under bridge between Khan-Tengri and Chapaev peaks, at the altitude of 5900 m. You can make a platform in a snow and set up a tent there. Third day should be devoted to active acclimatization - digging of a snow cave where you can leave some things such as tent, equipment, some food, gas, which you will need in future to climb to the top. It is recommended to climb up to 6400 m to the prospective Camp 3 and then climb down to Camp 2 the same day. After overnight in Camp 2, you will return to the base camp. Cook, bath and listeners to hear about your first impressions already await for you there. After several days of rest and preparation for climbing the peak you are ready to conquer it. Follow first trip our tactic, climb up to Camp 2. Next day climb up to Camp 3 (6700 m - there are already tent platforms at such altitude). Next day is the day of climbing to the top of the peak. There are always rail ropes from Camp 3 up to the peak along the way but do not forget to check each of them before using them. It is advised to leave Camp 3 as early as possible so that you could begin ascent latest at 08:00 - 09:00 a. m. It will take about 8-10 hours to climb up to the top and return to Camp 3. If you return to Camp 3 early enough, you can keep descending to a more "comfortable" Camp 2. Next day you will get down to the base camp taking the same path you have already used and back in the camp you will be greeted by your friend and have a celebration. Next morning you will be transferred first by a helicopter and then by a vehicle to the Issyk-Kul Lake. Then you will be heading to Bishkek, later transferred to the airport of Manas to catch a flight back home and in a couple of days all adventures will be far behind. But soon you will again dream of mountains and … majestic Khan-Tengri!

For more detailed itineraries see Scheme of Peak and Article

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